During the home-cooking renaissance of the early aughts, “from scratch” was the bar at which every kitchen endeavor was set. To be a real home cook, the kind who put love and attention into each dish, was to make everything yourself. It was rejecting the microwave dinners and canned vegetables of your foreparents, making double stock from leftover roast chickens instead of buying broth in a carton, and eschewing pre-cut fruit and instant rice. And when it came to seasoning,