In this time of food world reckonings, the latest once-beloved brand to come under scrutiny is Sqirl, the uber-hip, Los Angeles-based avatar of artisanal toast, grain bowls, and jam — jam that, as online allegations revealed over the weekend, had been stored improperly, leading to buckets topped with thick layers of mold. Beyond that, the cafe and its founder, Jessica Koslow, are facing criticism for their role in gentrifying Sqirl’s LA neighborhood, and for their alleged unfair treatment of its