This post originally appeared in the April 27, 2020 edition of The Move, a place for Eater’s editors to reveal their recommendations and pro dining tips — sometimes thoughtful, sometimes weird, but always someone’s go-to move. Subscribe now.

Just after traffic but before the Kardashians, bagels are among the very worst things about Los Angeles. For the better part of my 20 years spent in this city, I’ve been forced to endure the thick, puffy, round, breadish items that pass