It happened almost instantaneously: The city and state banned dining in at restaurants and bars indefinitely to curb the spread of COVID-19, and within days, social media was flooded with restaurant groups promoting GoFundMe fundraisers for thousands of staffers who had just been laid off.

The fundraisers offered a crucial first response to the devastating economic blow that had been dealt to NYC’s restaurant industry. Organizers launched campaigns to raise money as both financial support and a morale booster for