This post originally appeared on April 25, 2020 in Amanda Kludt’s newsletter “From the Editor,” a roundup of the most vital news and stories in the food world each week. Read the archives and subscribe now.

A big theme I’ve seen in stories this week, both in the restaurant world and outside of it, is what the world will look like when reopened. It feels close but just out of reach in this moment.

In Hong Kong, restaurants operate at