This post originally appeared in the July 20, 2020 edition of The Move, a place for Eater’s editors to reveal their recommendations and pro dining tips — sometimes thoughtful, sometimes weird, but always someone’s go-to move. Subscribe now.

Every year around May they start to arrive — the glossy food magazines with their lusty summer travel features. The centerfold star is always some fantastical rustic-but-not vacation house, its occupants eating a thrown-together-but-not feast off some massive weathered-wood slab draped with