During the first several weeks of the Bay Area’s shelter in place, Nyum Bai, the nationally acclaimed Cambodian restaurant in Oakland’s Fruitvale neighborhood, did what so many other local restaurants tried to do: It pivoted to limited hours and an abbreviated takeout menu and, quite simply, hoped for the best.

Chef-owner Nite Yun tells Eater SF that the takeout business went okay at first, but as the weeks went by, she started to question whether it was worth it to