“When I Don’t Feel Like Cooking, I Remember Canned Tuna” reads the headline of recent Bon Appetit op-ed by Carla Lalli Music. It’s one of many pieces from food media that grapples with cooking with pantry staples and canned goods instead of unlimited ingredients. Some are excited over the challenge, others are more resigned, but either way, it’s treated as new and novel. Music joked her pantry of canned goods was the result of panic shopping in the early days