This post originally appeared on July 18, 2020 in Amanda Kludt’s newsletter “From the Editor,” a roundup of the most vital news and stories in the food world each week. Read the archives and subscribe now.

Last Saturday night I had a beautiful dinner on the sidewalk outside a French bistro across the street from Fort Greene Park in Brooklyn. It had just rained, in one 20-minute-long torrential fit, after a hot, steamy day, and the night was finally cool.