When Chintan Pandya thinks of breakfast, he thinks of upma. But he’s not alone in that: A traditional Indian breakfast speciality, upma is a savory porridge that’s found across homes in the western and southern parts of India and increasingly all across the country, and not just as a morning food. But Pandya, a New York-based chef born in Mumbai, has a hard time separating upma from his morning memories of enjoying warming bowls of it prepared for him by