Birria tacos have positioned themselves in the last year or so as an essential dish in cities across the United States, with innumerable spots opening in New York City, Las Vegas, the Bay Area, LA, and Miami. The boom is due in large part to a number of taqueros who started using beef instead of goat — the traditional meat called for in the red-tinted, slow-cooked stew — given Americans’ widespread aversion to eating goat meat. As one study found,