If you love restaurants — or are just a sentient being on planet Earth — you’ve probably heard that 75 percent of independent restaurants will close by the time the COVID-19 pandemic is over. It’s a figure that has been reported dozens of times since March 18, when Tom Colicchio, the chef, TV star, and political activist, floated it to the Washington Post. At some point, the statistic became part of the Wikipedia entry entitled “Impact of the COVID-19 pandemic