About a year ago, after realizing how much money I’d spent buying fried chicken, I attempted to make my own. I followed a classic Ina Garten recipe that involved marinating the chicken in buttermilk, then dredging it in a flavorful flour mixture, followed by deep-frying in a Dutch oven, full of oil. At the end, I was exhausted, there were grease puddles and splatters everywhere, and I was left with fried chicken that would have Ina saying, “Store-bought is fine.”