Like many other restaurant operators, Nite Yun of Oakland’s Nyum Bai switched to takeout-only in the days following the Bay Area’s coronavirus mandates: a “Take Care for Now” menu offered familiar plates like koh (braised pork belly) with rice and fried chicken, plus wine and sake to go. But after four weeks of take-out service, Yun announced a temporary closure “to decompress and come up with a new game plan.”

By late April, the 2018 Eater Young Gun announced that