It’s been one month since every restaurant in New York City got turned into a ghost kitchen, and to a person observing from home, the industry seems to be adjusting to the COVID-19 shutdown. There are heartwarming reports of businesses pivoting to delivery and serving hospital workers, and customers waiting for their takeout are standing outside in an orderly fashion six-feet apart. The curve is flattening.

It’s a very different picture on the ground: Most restaurants are completely shuttered. Many