The dining room at chef Albert Di Meglio’s Brooklyn restaurant Barano might be empty, but business at Spirit Animal, his natural wine store next door, has never been better. “People have been buying cases,” says Di Meglio, who’s careful to let in just a few customers at a time to ensure social distancing. “The typical [mentality] used to be ‘let me get wine for a couple days.’ Now it’s ‘let me stock up for the week, or two weeks.”

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