The colorful plates at Lucy Silva’s Corona, California, restaurant Barra de Pan won’t stop coming. They are a force unto themselves, arriving in quick succession until they threaten to overtake the outdoor table. There’s a steaming plate of birria tacos, their tortillas red and softened from a dip in the cooking consomme, plus tacos al vapor, enchiladas, and cafe de olla. Silva, her kind eyes smiling from behind a mask, never slows down.

Like every restaurant in California at the