In her wartime publication How to Cook a Wolf, MFK Fisher spurned the typical cookbook categories in favor of chapters like “How to Greet the Spring.” Her suggestion? By cooking fish. In the midst of war, her audience could still revel in “the first succulent taste of bonito in the spring.”

How do we greet the spring now, in the midst of the fear and anxiety of a global crisis? Pandemic was declared in early March, but the season has