This post originally appeared in the June 15, 2020 edition of The Move, a place for Eater’s editors to reveal their recommendations and pro dining tips — sometimes thoughtful, sometimes weird, but always someone’s go-to move. Subscribe now.

For years I detested cold-brew coffee. The miraculous black liquid was too easy, too chuggable, too casual compared to the satisfying effort required to brew hot coffee at home. And the flavor of cold brew, one could argue, is thin, one-note, and