This post originally appeared in the October 19, 2020 edition of The Move, a place for Eater’s editors to reveal their recommendations and pro dining tips — sometimes thoughtful, sometimes weird, but always someone’s go-to move. Subscribe now.

My nervous energy isn’t a product of this pandemic, but it’s gotten a thousand times more intense since, you know, all of this. My trips to and from my cherished espresso machine are now on the half hour. I open and close