Not too long ago, I stood helpless in the doorway to my pantry, staring at my dwindling stores. What had once looked abundant now looked pathetic following two months of quarantine, and I felt inspirationally stunted. So I started pulling out boxes, one by one. And then I started reading boxes, an old art I had forgotten about, because, as an ambitious home cook, most of my recipes arrive through different avenues now: by suggestion, by experimentation, or by the