These days, it’s hard to know what you’re going to get when dining outdoors. Will you be eating out of take-out containers with plastic cutlery? Ordering at a window for counter service? Sit down service but ordering through an app? Or an as-close-as-possible simulacrum of the Before Times fine dining experience, complete with table service, pricey glassware, mints and tampons in the bathroom, and purse (or mask!) hooks?

This week on Eater’s Digest, Emmeline Zhao, partner and sommelier at upscale