Beaujolais wines are often summed up as “light, drinkable reds” — an enticing description that may partially explain their recent popularity. The fruity red wines from France’s Beaujolais region, often made from pinot or gamay grapes, are popping up as more folks embrace such “chuggable” wines, at wine bars and also at home.

But climate change is putting a damper on such wines, says Kae Whalen, beverage director at LA’s Kismet and 2019 Eater Young Gun. Certain grapes “are starting