“Nobody is ordering wine,” says Joe Swick. His eponymous label, Swick Wines, is based in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, and sources grapes from both Oregon and Washington. Swick is represented by the influential natural wine importer and distributor Jenny and Francois Selections, and his wines — often with ludicrous, memetic names like “WYD? U UP?” and “P. Chill” — are sought after for natural wine restaurant lists and in bottle shops across the country. Or at least they were before coronavirus.